Clay plasters, renders and alises

To combat climate change we need to draw carbon out of the atmosphere. The way to do this in building is to use carbon sequestering materials. Plants and trees take up carbon dioxide as they grow via photosynthesis. If we use them in our buildings this carbon is then stored. Low density natural building methods such as light earth and straw bale are good at locking in carbon. To finish these walls (at least on the inside) a natural clay plaster can be used. This is a beautiful, soft and breathable finish that has many benefits.

Benefits include

● Clay is hydrophilic or ‘water loving’. This means that it has high water absorption rates and can preserve adjacent cellulose materials by taking the water from them, reducing the likelihood of decomposition
● It is hygroscopic. That means it can absorb moisture from the air. The result is that humidity can be controlled and balanced leading to a more uniform and comfortable internal environment
● It is highly vapour permeable or ‘breathable’. This allows any water that has condensed in the wall to escape to the outside also reducing the likelihood of decomposition and mould
● It is non toxic and can even absorb toxins and neutralise odours from the environment
● It is EMF shielding. This means it can dampen the electromagnetic fields that are ever present in our urban environments
● Clay is a natural negative ion air purifier. That means it creates healthy negatively charged air like that find at beaches, lakes, rivers, mountains and forests
● Clay plasters introduce thermal mass into buildings. If designed according to passive solar principles this can aid in thermal regulation i.e. night time heat in winter and lunch time coolth in summer

Clay plasters can be applied over many surfaces and clay renders can be used eternally on walls well protected from the weather. Clay paints or alises can also be used for decorative effect on protected walls.

Clay plasters are covered in the Earth Building Standards.

Points to consider

● Clay plasters can be applied over cob, adobe, rammed earth, light earth, straw bale, timber lath (use heavy straw clay mix), reed matting lath or even plasterboard (with the correct key)
● Usually applied in two or three coats. Scratch and moisten between each coat. Scratch coat applied first up to 12mm thick and finish coats applied 3-6mm thick
● Composed of clay, sand (well graded and clean), plant or animal fibre and water
● Use more clay in base coats to get plaster to stick and more sand or straw in finish coats to avoid cracking
● Can add horse or cow manure, casein-borax glue, paper pulp cellulose (watch shrinkage) or wheat paste (wallpaper size) to increase durability and reduce dusting
● Natural mineral pigments or mica can be added to the final coat for aesthetic effect
● Mesh on slip layer required over dissimilar materials such as timber framing
● Let each coat dry before the application of the next one to avoid cracks, stains or mould
● Trowel on or apply with heel of hand in an upward motion for better waterproofing
● Splash backs are required to areas subject to water splash. Clay plasters are not appropriate to wet area such as showers
● Plastering is messy work so tape up and cover glass, woodwork, floors and furniture
● Burnish plaster with a damp sponge for a smoother finish and to expose the straw and aggregate as it starts to set hard
● Don’t apply plaster in direct sunlight
● Clay is available by the bag in powder form, as clay putty from potter supply stores or often directly from the ground beneath the topsoil. To process damp clay dug fresh from the ground or clay putty, slake with water and whisk with a paddle drill to create thick creamy mousse. If the clay is in big chunks but 100% bone dry, it will break down when added to water. This removes the need to break it up into little pieces. You will want to remove the larger aggregates before plastering. Powered clay is the easiest to process. Simply add water and whisk to create thick cream.
● Always soak clay for at least 24 hours (perhaps some time longer for green clay) before use to get it nice and sticky

Further reading

● Adam Weismann and Katy Bryce. Using Natural Finishes: Lime & Earth Based Plasters, Renders & Paints. Green Books, 2008.
● Gernot Minke. Building With Earth. Birkhäuser Verlag, 2013.
● Jacob Racusin and Ace McArleton. The Natural Building Companion. Chelsea Green Publishing, 2012.
● Joseph F. Kennedy, Michael G. Smith and Catherine Wanek, Editors. The Art of Natural Building Second Edition. New Society Publishers, 2015.
● Franz Volhard. Light Earth Building. Birkhäuser Verlag, 2016.
● Joseph M. Tibbets. The Earthbuilders’ Encyclopedia. Southwest Solaradobe School, 1988.
● Clarke Snell & Tim Callahan. Building Green. Lark, 2009.
● Ianto Evans, Michael G. Smith and Linda Smiley. The Hand-Sculpted House. Chelsea Green Publishing, 2002.
● Adam Weismann and Katy Bryce. Building with Cob. Green Books, 2006.
● Paul Lacinski and Michael Bergeron. Serious Straw Bale. Chelsea Green Publishing, 2000.
● Barbara Jones. Building with Straw Bales. Green Books, 2015.
● Chris Magwood, Peter Mack & Tina Therrien. More Straw Bale Building. New Society Publishers, 2005.
● Lydia Doleman. Essential Light Straw Clay Construction. New Society Publishers, 2017.

Copyright 2019 © Martin Ulenberg. All rights reserved.